When to Plant Fruit Trees
Fruit trees are best planted while dormant, from autumn to spring. This page explains when to choose autumn and when spring, where to plant, how to do it and what to do in the first two years. The sources are listed at the bottom; this is general background, and exact timing depends on your region and on the type of tree you buy.
At a glance
- When
- While dormant, from autumn to spring.
- Bare-root trees
- Sold from late autumn to early spring and planted straight away.
- Container-grown trees
- Can be planted all year; winter is preferred; avoid hot, dry weather.
- Autumn
- Wait for cooler weather and for the tree to be dormant (leaves lost or falling).
- Early spring
- For bare-root trees where winters are cold, February–March is ideal.
- Site
- Warm, sunny, sheltered from late frosts; fertile, freely draining soil that does not waterlog.
- Graft union
- On dwarfing rootstocks, 3–6 inches (about 8–15 cm) above the soil.
- After planting
- Stake it; water regularly in dry spells for two years; mulch at least 5 cm thick.
When is the best time
Plant trees while they are dormant, from autumn to spring. Bare-root trees are sold only from late autumn to early spring and should be planted straight away. Container-grown trees can be planted all year, but winter is preferred; avoid hot, dry weather.
Autumn or spring
For autumn planting, wait until the weather cools (for example around October) and the tree is dormant — that is, has lost or is losing its leaves. A dormant tree stores more carbohydrates in its roots, which supports growth in spring. Bare-root stock can be hard to find in autumn, because nurseries dig trees while they are dormant, sometimes as late as January.
Where winters are cold, early spring (February–March) is ideal for bare-root trees, and the selection is usually bigger then. Either way, a bare-root tree is planted while it is still dormant.
Where to plant it
- Choose a warm, sunny, sheltered spot away from late frosts.
- The soil should be fertile, drain freely and not become waterlogged.
- Allow plenty of space for the tree’s ultimate size. A quince, for example, can reach about 3–4.5 m (10–15 ft) in height and spread.
How to plant it
- Soil preparation is usually unnecessary. If the soil is poor, mix about a bucketful of organic matter into the soil you dug out and use it to backfill.
- If planting in a lawn, remove a circle or square of grass at least 1 m (3 ft) across.
- Soak container-grown trees before planting. Stand bare-root trees in water for 30 minutes.
- Support a free-standing tree with a stake fitted at planting time.
- The graft union (where the scion meets the rootstock): on dwarfing rootstocks it should sit 3–6 inches (about 8–15 cm) above the soil. Trees settle and can bury the union, and if soil covers it the scion can root on its own and the dwarfing effect is lost. For other rootstocks, follow the nursery’s instructions.
After planting
- Water regularly during dry spells for the first couple of years, at the base, early in the morning or in the evening.
- Spread a mulch layer at least 5 cm (2 in) thick, such as well-rotted compost or manure, around the tree, leaving a few centimetres clear around the trunk — mulch pressed against the bark holds moisture and can cause rot.
Common questions
When do you plant fruit trees?
While they are dormant — from autumn to spring. Bare-root trees are planted straight after buying (they are sold from late autumn to early spring), and container-grown trees can be planted all year, preferably in winter.
Is autumn or spring better?
Both work as long as the tree is dormant. Autumn needs cooler weather and a tree that has lost its leaves, but bare-root stock is hard to find then. Where winters are cold, February–March is ideal for bare-root trees, and the choice is bigger.
How do I prepare a bare-root tree?
Stand it in water for 30 minutes before planting and plant it straight afterwards. Soak container-grown trees before planting.
Where should I plant the tree?
A warm, sunny spot sheltered from late frosts, with fertile soil that drains freely and does not waterlog. Leave room for the tree’s ultimate size.
How high should the graft union be?
On trees with dwarfing rootstocks, 3–6 inches (about 8–15 cm) above the soil. That way, even if the tree settles, the scion does not root and the rootstock keeps limiting size. For other rootstocks, follow the nursery’s instructions.
How do I look after a newly planted tree?
Stake it, mulch at least 5 cm thick around the base, and water it regularly in dry spells for the first two years, early in the morning or in the evening at the base.
Important: This page is general background for a home garden and does not replace an on-site look or a specialist's advice. It names no spray products: for crop protection, always follow the product label and the rules in force.
Related calendars
More seasonal tips
Sources
This page was checked against the public reference below. It is general background, not a diagnosis of a specific plant.
- RHS — How to grow apples (planting)
- RHS — How to grow quince
- Oregon State University Extension — Should I plant fruit trees in fall or spring?
- Penn State Extension (eXtension) — Apple tree graft union height after planting
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