Pear Tree Calendar

January — Dormancy and inspection

What to do

• Look the tree over for cankers, dry twigs, and overwintering pests. Pear psylla overwinters as an adult in cracks in the bark.
• Check for mummified fruit still on the branches and take it down.
• Remove dead and broken branches in dry weather. Leave the main shaping pruning for late winter.

Why

Cankers on branches are where fire blight overwinters, and bark is a refuge for overwintering insects. The sooner you spot them, the fewer problems you'll have in spring.

Common mistakes

• Pruning in a freeze or wet weather.
• Skipping the inspection "because the tree is asleep".

February — Pre-spring check

What to do

• Start regular monitoring. Check branches for signs of fire blight before the buds break and remove infected parts in dry weather.
• Clean your tools between cuts.
• About six weeks before bloom, tap branches over a light tray or sheet of paper: that shows overwintering pear psylla.
• Do the main pruning in late winter, in dry weather.

Why

Pear psylla lays eggs early in spring, so it is best to know whether adults are present before then. Late-winter pruning leaves wounds open only briefly.

Common mistakes

• Cutting infected branches too close to the visible signs.
• Working from tree to tree with unwashed tools.

March — Bud break

What to do

• Watch for scab and leaf spots after rainy periods with long leaf wetness.
• Watch for active pear psylla on warm days, once temperatures rise above roughly 5°C (40°F).
• If you didn't clear last autumn's fallen leaves, do it now.
• Record rainfall and the dates of your first observations.

Why

Scab overwinters in fallen leaves and spreads with spring rain. The sooner you start watching, the clearer your picture of the whole season.

Common mistakes

• Waiting for visible spots before you start watching.
• Ignoring the weather.

April — Bloom

What to do

• This is one of the most critical periods for fire blight. Warm, humid weather during bloom raises the risk.
• Watch for darkening blossoms and wilting shoot tips.
• Protect pollinators: bloom is the bees’ time, and you should not disturb them without need.
• Don't overdo nitrogen — it pushes lush, soft growth that fire blight prefers.

Why

The fire blight bacterium overwinters in cankers on branches, and at bloom it is spread by rain, insects, and wind to infect the blossoms.

Common mistakes

• Unnecessary interventions during bloom.
• Being slow to remove affected branches.

Tip: If you recognize fire blight, cut the branch 8–12 inches (20–30 cm) below visible signs, in dry weather, and disinfect your tool between cuts.

May — After bloom

What to do

• Check young fruit and leaves for spots and damage.
• Watch for pear psylla: sticky honeydew on leaves and fruit is a sign of it.
• Keep checking shoots for fire blight.
• Keep track of rainfall and long periods of wetness.

Why

The sticky honeydew pear psylla leaves attracts sooty mold, a black film that disfigures the skin of the fruit and makes it russeted.

Common mistakes

• Assuming the risk is over after bloom.
• Ignoring sticky leaves.

June — Fruit growth

What to do

• Watch for spots, deformities, and damage on the fruit.
• Monitor pests instead of acting out of habit.
• Protect the leaf mass: it feeds the fruit and prepares the tree for the next season.
• In dry spells, water deeply and evenly.

Why

Healthy leaves are what really produce quality fruit. Every bit of leaf damage reduces the reserves the tree takes into winter.

Common mistakes

• Acting "out of habit" without identifying a problem.
• Neglecting water in drought.

July — Fruit ripening

What to do

• Keep watching for spots, damage, and pests.
• Thin an overly dense crown so it gets airflow and dries faster after rain.
• Remove damaged fruit so it does not become a source of rot.
• Stop nitrogen feeding after the start of July.

Why

An open crown dries faster, which lowers the risk of diseases that need long wet periods. Late nitrogen pushes new growth that does not harden before winter.

Common mistakes

• Nitrogen late in summer.
• Leaving damaged fruit on the tree.

August — Harvest

What to do

• Pick at the right time for the variety, not by the date.
• Remove damaged and rotten fruit.
• Handle fruit gently: bruises and wounds lead to rot in storage.

Why

Bruises and wounds are the entry point for rot. Your harvest notes show which varieties and trees have the most problems.

Common mistakes

• Picking everything on one day regardless of variety.
• Mixing sound and damaged fruit.

September — After harvest

What to do

• Don't stop caring right away. Healthy leaves after harvest keep working for the tree.
• Collect fallen and rotten fruit.
• Write down what happened this season: which problems you had and when.

Why

In September the leaves are still building reserves for winter and the next spring. The more healthy leaf mass remains, the stronger the tree.

Common mistakes

• Neglecting the tree right after harvest.
• Leaving rotten fruit under the tree.

October — Autumn sanitation

This month

What to do

• Collect mummified fruit and heavily infected plant debris.
• Pay attention to the leaves if there was spotting or scab.
• Rake up fallen leaves around the tree.
• Remove dead and broken branches, but do not prune hard in autumn.

Why

Fallen leaves are the main overwintering source of scab, and mummified fruit carries disease over to the next spring. The less is left, the calmer the spring.

Common mistakes

• Leaving fallen leaves "as mulch".
• Heavy autumn pruning, which raises the risk of winter injury.

November — Before winter

What to do

• If you didn't shred or collect the leaves in October, do it now.
• Check the trunk for wounds and cankers.
• Clean and put away your tools.

Why

Shredding or destroying the leaves lowers the scab spores for next spring.

Common mistakes

• Adding infected leaves to compost you will use around the trees.

December — Dormancy and review

What to do

• Check the tree for cankers, dry twigs, and overwintering pests.
• Go over your season notes: what happened and when.
• Plan late-winter pruning and spring checks.

Why

The sequence that works is: autumn sanitation, winter inspection, spring monitoring, action only at real risk, and healthy leaves to the end of the season.