Quince Tree Calendar
Quince is an easy, forgiving, and beautiful tree, but it has its own rules: fruit forms at the tips of the shoots, the flowers are frost-tender, and the fruit is picked at just the right time — not too early and not after the first frost. This calendar explains what to do each month and why. Timings are for a temperate climate and follow the condition of the tree and the weather, not only the date. The calendar names no spray products: for plant protection, always follow the product label and the advice of a local agronomist.
At a glance
- Planting
- While dormant — November to March, when the soil is not frozen. A warm, sunny, sheltered spot.
- Pollination
- Quince is self-fertile — one tree will crop without a second pollinator.
- Size
- Usually 3–4.5 m (10–15 ft) in height and spread, depending on rootstock, position, and soil.
- Pruning
- Light, in winter dormancy. Fruit forms at the tips of branches — do not cut them off.
- Harvest
- When the fruit turns from light yellow to golden and is very aromatic; before the first frost.
- Mellowing and storage
- Cool and dark, fruit not touching; it keeps about 2–3 months.
- Eating
- Not eaten raw — for jelly, jam, desserts, pies, and quince paste (membrillo).
- Main risks
- Fire blight, leaf spot (leaf blight), fruit brown rot, aphids.
Months
January — Winter rest and checks
What to do
- Check the stored fruit: remove any that start to rot or soften.
- On frost-free days, look over the tree for dead and damaged branches.
- If the tree needs pruning, winter is the right time — while it is dormant.
- Plan where and what you will plant or move.
Why
Quince asks little of you, but rotting fruit in storage and diseased wood left on the tree spread problems. Winter is the time for checking and planning.
Common mistakes
- Leaving rotting fruit among sound fruit.
- Pruning in hard frost.
Tip: Note which branches were damaged and why — next year you will know what to watch for.
February — Light pruning
What to do
- If needed, prune lightly: remove dead, damaged, and diseased wood and thin congested, inward-facing, or overly vigorous shoots.
- Do not cut off the tips of the branches — that is where the fruit forms.
- Disinfect your tools, especially after diseased wood.
- Collect and remove the cuttings; do not leave them under the tree.
Why
A well-shaped quince needs very little pruning. A light, airy crown dries out faster and is less prone to fungal disease.
Common mistakes
- Hard pruning — it removes the fruiting tips.
- Cutting diseased wood and then healthy wood with the same blade.
March — Last planting window and mulching
What to do
- If you are planting a new tree, do it while it is still dormant and the soil is neither frozen nor waterlogged.
- Choose a warm, sunny, sheltered spot — the flowers are frost-tender and the fruit needs sun to ripen.
- Leave room: the tree can reach about 3–4.5 m (10–15 ft).
- Mulch with compost or well-rotted manure around the tree, keeping it off the trunk.
- Water young trees in dry spells during the first couple of years.
Why
A tree planted while dormant roots in before growth starts. Mulch holds moisture and feeds the soil, and regularly mulched trees usually need no extra feeding.
Common mistakes
- Planting in a windy, cold spot.
- Mulch piled against the trunk.
April — Buds and frost
What to do
- Watch the forecast. The flowers are frost-tender — if frost threatens, cover young trees where you can.
- Check branches for signs of fire blight before growth starts and remove affected parts in dry weather.
- Water young trees if it is dry.
- Do not overdo nitrogen: it pushes lush, soft growth.
Why
One frosty night at bud-break can wipe out the crop. Fire blight overwinters in cankers on branches and spreads at bloom.
Common mistakes
- Ignoring the frost forecast.
- Too much nitrogen.
May — Bloom and fruit set
What to do
- If frost threatens, protect the blossom.
- Do not spray during bloom without need: it draws pollinators.
- In warm, humid weather at bloom, watch for fire blight — it infects the blossoms.
- Watch for aphids on young shoot tips.
- In cool, wet weather start looking at the leaves for spots.
Why
Bloom decides how much fruit there will be. Fire blight spreads through the flowers by rain, insects, and wind, and cool, wet weather favours leaf spot.
Common mistakes
- Spraying during bloom.
- Underestimating cool, wet weather.
June — Young fruit and leaves
What to do
- Watch the leaves: reddish-purple spots with a paler centre are a sign of leaf spot. Early leaf drop is a warning sign.
- Water young and potted trees in dry spells — evenly, at the base.
- Avoid wetting the leaves; do not water overhead.
- Check shoot tips: wilted, blackened shoots bent like a crook are a sign of fire blight — cut them out in dry weather.
- Check for aphids on the tips.
Why
The leaves feed the fruit. A heavily diseased tree that drops its leaves crops worse and ripens poorly.
Common mistakes
- Watering the leaves.
- Finding fire blight too late.
July — Summer
What to do
- Water evenly in dry weather, especially young and potted trees.
- Keep watching for fire blight on shoots and for leaf spot.
- Remove and destroy diseased shoots if there are any; disinfect your tool.
- Collect fallen fruit — rotting fruit is a source of infection.
Why
Lack of water and leaf disease weaken the tree in summer, while the fruit is growing.
Common mistakes
- Leaving fallen fruit under the tree.
- Uneven watering.
August — Fruit growth
What to do
- Keep watching leaves and shoots.
- Collect fallen and damaged fruit.
- Water in dry spells, evenly.
- Look over the fruit: remove shrivelled, rotting, or damaged fruit right away — it is a source of brown rot.
Why
The fruit is still gaining size and aroma. Damaged fruit is an entry point for brown rot.
Common mistakes
- Leaving damaged fruit on the tree.
- Fallen fruit left under the tree.
September — Getting ready to harvest
What to do
- Watch the colour: the fruit goes from green to light yellow, and then to golden.
- Prepare a cool, dark, airy place for storage and wooden or cardboard trays.
- Start collecting fallen leaves if they are diseased.
- Do not rush — the fruit is ready when golden and very aromatic.
Why
Fruit left longer on the tree develops better flavour. But it should be picked before the first frost.
Common mistakes
- Picking green fruit too early.
- No storage place ready.
October — Harvest
This month
What to do
- Pick when the fruit is golden and very aromatic — usually October or early November.
- Pick before the first frost.
- Keep only sound, undamaged fruit for storage; use damaged fruit right away.
- Place the fruit in a cool, dark place, in trays, not touching.
Why
Late picking gives richer aroma, but frost can damage the fruit. Damaged fruit rots first and infects its neighbours.
Common mistakes
- Picking after frost.
- Storing damaged fruit.
Tip: Do not wrap them in paper or foil — they need air.
November — Mellowing and sanitation
What to do
- Leave the fruit in a cool, dark place for at least six to eight weeks before using it — it mellows and the aroma develops.
- Check it regularly and remove any that start to rot.
- Rake up and destroy fallen leaves — the leaf spot fungus overwinters in them. Do not compost them if they are heavily diseased.
- If you are planting, November is the start of the right period — while the tree is dormant.
- Put a layer of mulch around the tree.
Why
Leaf spot overwinters in diseased leaves and shoots; a clean garden in autumn lowers the pressure next spring.
Common mistakes
- Leaving the leaves under the tree.
- Forgotten rotting fruit in storage.
December — Review and planning
What to do
- Check the stored fruit and remove any that are rotting.
- Go over your season notes: when it bloomed, whether there was frost, when spots appeared, how much fruit you got.
- Decide whether the tree needs pruning, and whether you want new trees.
- Use the fruit: jelly, jam, stewed or baked quince.
Why
Your own notes are the most accurate calendar — they show what really happens in your garden and climate.
Common questions
When do you pick quinces?
When the colour turns from light yellow to golden and the aroma is strong — usually October or early November, earlier in warmer areas. Leave them on the tree as long as you can for better flavour, but pick before the first frost. Pick only sound, undamaged fruit.
Can you eat quince raw?
No — the fruit is hard and astringent. It is good cooked: jelly, jam, stewed, baked, or as quince paste. After picking, the fruit should be stored for at least six to eight weeks in a cool place to mellow before use.
How do you store quinces?
Only sound, undamaged fruit, in a cool, dark place, in slatted wooden or cardboard trays, with the fruits not touching and not wrapped. They keep about 2–3 months. Check regularly and remove any that start to rot.
How much should I prune a quince?
Very little. Shape a young tree into an open goblet, as with an apple, and after that prune only as needed — in winter, while dormant. Remove dead, damaged, and diseased wood and thin congested growth. Be careful not to cut off the branch tips, because that is where the fruit forms.
Why does my quince blossom but not fruit?
The most common reason is frost or cold, wet weather during bloom: the flowers are frost-tender. Another possible cause is hard pruning that removed the fruiting tips. The tree is self-fertile, so a missing second pollinator is usually not the reason.
What are the reddish spots on the leaves?
Most often it is leaf spot (leaf blight), a fungal disease that favours cool, wet spring weather. Leaves get reddish-purple spots with a paler centre and can drop early. The fungus overwinters in diseased leaves and shoots, so raking and destroying the leaves in autumn helps most. Also avoid wetting the leaves when you water.
What should I do about fire blight?
Fire blight makes shoots look scorched, with tips bent like a shepherd’s crook. Cut out the affected wood in dry weather, about 20–30 cm (8–12 in) below visible signs, and disinfect your tool between cuts. Do not overdo nitrogen — lush, soft growth is more susceptible.
Is this the same as Japanese quince (Chaenomeles)?
No. Common quince (Cydonia oblonga) is a tree with large aromatic fruit. Japanese quince (Chaenomeles) is a thorny shrub grown for its spring blossom; its fruit is much smaller and not worth much in the kitchen.
Important: This calendar is a general growing frame and does not replace an on-site look or an agronomist's advice. It names no spray products. For crop protection, always follow the product label and the rules in force.
Sources
This calendar was checked against the public references below. It is general background, not a diagnosis of a specific plant.
- RHS — How to grow quince
- RHS — Quince leaf blight
- UC IPM — Quince (home and landscape)
- UC IPM — Fire blight (home and landscape)
- University of Maryland Extension — Fire blight disease of trees
- Pacific Northwest Plant Disease Management Handbook — Quince leaf spot
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